Thursday, November 26, 2009

Standards in the Panorama, Tuesday, November 24, 2009

I got up at 8, stretched, had some OJ, worked on my diary and finished watching 'Shortcut to Happiness' and showered.

At 11 I walked to the BTS station, rode the skytrain to the Asok station and transferred to the MTS and rode to the Hua Lumphong station. From there I walked into Chinatown, looking for the Monk's Bowl Village. I was in the wrong area and walked around for over an hour, before I got my hair cut. The barber was Chinese and didn't understand English, so I looked at his poster showing men's hair styles, all longer than I wanted. I finally pointed to the King's portrait to show the type of cut I wanted. He used the electric cutter, then the scissors and comb to get my hair short enough. I had not cut my hair in about 2 months and really needed it cut. Cost was 50B plus a 10B tip.

As I was leaving the barbershop I asked the barber if he knew where the Monk's Bowl Village was. He didn't understand, but a customer, an older Chinese man, motioned with his arm down the street and a left turn. I had no indication of how far to go, but in the next block I found the street sign I had looked for, Ban Bat. I walked down a few hundred feet and was asked by a taxi driver 'Monk's Bowl?'. I nodded yes and he motioned to the right where I could see an open air shop, with glass display cases. Two men said 'Sawadee Krab' and motioned me to the cases which had a lot of bowls, most painted black, some with gold design painted along the top edge. There were some smaller versions and one large one wrapped in a colorful cloth cover and strap. I looked at all of the bowls and tapped one after the man demonstrated it, to hear the tone. I asked about cost. One man said 1000B, and 1400B for the covered bowl. I had about 1200B left, so I showed them my charge cards and one of them said 'ATM'. He led me on a 5 minute walk to a bank ATM down the block and around the corner. I was hoping they had some way of charging the purchase. I tried my debit card and found the fee was 150B for any amount I wanted up to 2000B. Since my bank might have another fee and an exchange fee, I decided the cost was too much. I told the man, and he motioned to the bank door. I asked the teller if they could give me money on my charge card. She asked if I had a PIN and I said 'Only for the debit card', so she shook her head no and said 'ATM', then 'Bangkok Bank'. The Bangkok Bank was next door. I knew they wouldn't be able to charge the purchase to my Visa, so I checked their ATM and found the fees to be the same as the first ATM. I told the man it was too much and we walked back. I put all my money on the top of the case and asked if that would be enough for the covered bowl, which the other man had already put in a plastic bag. The 2 men looked at each other, said something in Thai, then gave me back 82B and said 'Tuk-tuk'. So I got the bowl for 1140B, and I took photos of the cases and 2 workers pounding on bowls.

The walk back to the MTS was all the way through Chinatown and took about half an hour. I walked part of the way in the street because the sidewalk in some stretches is clogged with vendor carts and shoppers. Some of the clerks and others recognized the bowl and smiled. One older Chinese man spoke enough English to ask what I was going to do with it. 'Souvenir', I told him. He asked if I was Buddhist and said some Thais use it to for offerings to monks. About 3, I called Bill to confirm that I was on my way to the apartment and we didn't need to go to IT City.

I walked to Bill's from the Ekkamai station and bought 2 packs of instant noodles at the stand in the parking lot, for 12B. Since I shouldn't need enough Baht to pay $10 for a cash advance, I decided to exchange some of my remaining $114. I checked the camcorder and tripod so I would be ready when I arrived at the restaurant.

Bill and I left about 4:40 and caught a songthaew to the BTS station. I borrowed 100B from Bill to add value to my BTS card just because it is easier than buying a ticket for each ride. I got off at Phrom Phong, as Bill suggested, and went out of the gate to the stores on the walkway. There were 3 currency exchange booths. I changed a $20 to Baht, getting 648.8B, a rate of 32.44B to the dollar. Traveler's checks get a better rate, 33.02B per dollar.

I decided to go onto the sidewalk to find a food cart with something to eat, since I hadn't had anything today except my morning OJ. There were lots of carts, most of them showing meats, with relatively few vegetables in sight. I found one cart on a side street sidewalk, just before the Asok station, with tables and chairs, and an English menu. I ordered the only thing I knew was mostly vegetables, Dom Sam (green papaya salad) and sticky rice. The salad had the usual vegetables, with peanuts a few tiny shrimp in it. It was very good. Cost of both dishes was 45B. Walking further I stopped to look at the bootleg DVD movies on a sidewalk table. They were each 100B, so I got 'Julie and Julia', for Trish, as a souvenir of Bangkok.

I climbed the steps up to the BTS walkway over the street, to cross over the intersection to the MTS station, stopping only long enough to drop a baht coin in the cup of a little girl asleep face down on a landing. There are a lot of beggars in Bangkok, mostly on or near the BTS stations, but I've just passed all the others. Many are crippled and some young women have babies. It is hard to just pass any of them. Couldn't just pass the little girl. One baht is little more than a gesture, but maybe it will help.

My MTS card was low, so I added 100B to it, resulting in a 96B card. I must have been 4B short on my previous trip. There are no add value machines in the station. The agents are in a booth and can add value only outside the gates.

I rode to the Silom station, then used Bill's map to climb the steps to the walkway over the street, then down to the sidewalk by McDonald's and onto the Pan Pacific Hotel. I started the video outside to show the street and the hotel entrance, then rode the elevator to the 23rd floor, arriving about 6:30. The MaitreD led me toward the dining room, but I told her I wanted to see my friend play, so she led me to a table in front of their set. No other customers were in the area. I nodded to them as they were performing and started video recording with the camcorder on the table, propped up with my coin holder. That didn't work well, so I soon pulled out the tripod. I recorded all of their songs, and between sets, got the tripod adjusted to make panning from one to the other performer relatively smooth. I changed batteries before I needed to change the memory stick.

The piano player, Jimmy Cicero, is personable and talked to me briefly on the breaks, mentioning he was from Hayward and hadn't been back there for 8 years. Bill and Chang sat with me most of their break time. We talked about their work and my travels, and I showed Chang the 2 photos of Bill's sister. Their contract is not being extended, so it is completed at the end of December. Bill may travel to India then. Chang may go to London to a language school. She knows a lot about Chiang Mai because she stayed there growing up as her family had a home there. She also stayed on Ko Pha-Ngan, so knows about snorkeling around there, in the Gulf of Thailand.

A group of 3 men sat and applauded the music for a few songs during the last set. At 10 the music finished and I thanked them. Jimmy Cicero said goodbye and Chang said she hoped I would visit Thailand again.

Bill and I stopped at Tops Produce Store. I bought 2 Australian Murcott Oranges, for 40B, and 2 cans of tea, 32B, and 2 bags of soup, 40B, for a total of 112B. We rode back on the MTS and BTS, then a songthaew. I gave the DVD movie to Bill to copy and filled my liter bottle with purified water, for 1B.

Today, I paid out 1671B, about $50. I have left about 250B, but probably need only enough for the ride to the airport.

Bangkok Movie Theater, Monday, November 23, 2009

I got up at 6:30, stretched, started on the OJ, worked on my diary and backup of photos and video. Later I showered and went to the Coffee Art shop to upload some photos and update my blog. I emailed a birthday greeting card and messages to Brett for his 18th birthday on the 25th. About 11:24 Trish called and asked about pre-ordering the Susan Boyle CD for $9.99. Shipping is free if the order is at least $25, so Trish called Bill to see if he wanted anything else from Amazon. He didn't, and called me again after 12 to let me know. I checked through a lot of things on Amazon and found a motorcycle travel book I wanted to read, so I added that to the order to get free shipping. I was in the shop from 11 to 1:30, so my charge for the computer use was 90B.

On the way back I sat down at the lunch cafe in the apartment parking lot. The man was busy cooking for about 8 young people, and wasn't caught up, so I decided to go up to the apartment and heat up a bag of steamed rice and the tray of stir fried mama noodles with sp, from the refrigerator. The sp is spices, and it was good. The Pepsi didn't taste like much, probably because of my congestion.

I watched parts of the movie 'Gabriel' but found it too bizarre and violent. I started to watch 'Shortcut to Happiness', which is OK so far.

Trish had mentioned that Bill wanted to go to a movie today, on his day off work. Bill and I talked for a short time before he went to the dental appointment at 4. The movie he wanted to see, '2012', was at the theater near the Ekkamai BTS station. He called me at 5 and said the movie started at 5:50 and we could meet in the lobby. I showered and put on long pants and carried a long-sleeve shirt and wind breaker, expecting the theater to be AC cold. I walked down to the theater and looked around in the mall shops for 20 minutes til Bill walked in.

Bill was wearing a new cap, with the name of his proposed dance movement workshop, Fo Cuz, stitched on it. We got senior day tickets, 100B for this movie rather than the expected 80B, and found the 5:50 showing was in Thai. The English version was at 6:35. With over 45 minutes to go, we walked next door to the FamilyMart. I found the sandwiches sold out and bought a 450ml bottle of strawberry drinking yoghurt for 19B and a long bun filled with sweetened butter, for 17B. We still had a lot of time, so we sat down at the Black Canyon cafe in the mall. Bill had a Thai tea and I had a coconut soup, Tom Kha, for 80B. The soup was very good, although it still had some inedible stems and ginger in it. I left a 10B tip, so my cost was 90B.

We found our preselected seats and I put on my shirt. It wasn't as cold as the last bus I rode, so I was warm enough without my jacket. There were ads and previews that went on for half an hour. The movie is a doomsday story, with very realistic special effects, and good acting. Billions of people die, off camera, with thousands being saved in huge high tech arks.

During the movie I ate the bun, which was good and sweet, and drank half the yoghurt. Indigestion started soon after and I realized that the yoghurt probably didn't have any acidophilus culture that I expected because it is in all of the US yogurts I've tried. I quickly swallowed an acidophilus capsule and was able to stay through the movie, and the indigestion did not get worse, but didn't go away either.

The movie finished sometime after 9:30. Bill got a call from Ajahn Sumano on the way out. He needed some reference book, I think Bill said. We took a little songthaew back to the apartment, and Bill paid the 10B each fare. The fare increases from 5B to 10B after 10pm.

So my outlay for today is 315B, about $9.45.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Bangkok Chinatown, Sunday, November 22, 2009

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I was up about 8 this morning, stretched, showered and finished the OJ. I worked on diaries, imported and converted my underwater video, and read some more from the guidebooks.

Before noon I started the DVD creation of the UW video, then I walked down to the BTS station, stopping on the way for a plate of Som Dam, which is green papaya salad, and sticky rice, at a street vendor on Soi 4, for 40B. It was very good, quite spicy. I toned it down with the cabbage and a green bean, then washed it down with water.

While waiting for a BTS train, Trish called and we had a nice talk. She has been tired and doesn't sleep well, but forced herself to get out to the senior dance Saturday. I told her the weather in Bangkok since I returned has been mild, cooler and drier than when I left a week ago.

I rode the BTS train to the Asok station, then transferred to the MTS (subway) and rode to the end of the line, at the Hua Lumphong train depot. From there it is a short walk to the nearby Chinatown. Crossing the bridge over the canal, a Chinese man about my age stopped to tell me to come to the Old City tomorrow at 10 for a holiday, at some wat, but I couldn't understand the name. I showed him my map, but the place was to the west of the map. He goes on the Skytrain, then takes buses to get there. The canals shown on the map go to the Old City, he said.

I walked the 2 main streets in Chinatown and took a few photos, but the battery I had changed to is the one which does not always charge up. Apparently, the charge contacts don't touch the charger contacts unless the battery is pushed sideways. I was able to shoot by reinstalling the battery. I could get one shot at a time that way, using the small charge left in the battery. Many stores are closed on Sunday. A small Canon camera store was open, but it didn't have the charger or the aftermarket battery. It had a Canon battery, for 3900B, but I declined because I don't have the Canon charger and the new battery might not be charged, and the price is higher than on Ebay. Traveling back to get one of the other 2 batteries would take too much time, so I kept walking and taking in the sights. There were a lot of people on the narrow and often blocked sidewalks. The blockage was from street vendors, of food and souvenirs, mostly.

Restaurants and food vendors on the street both advertised Bird's Nest and Shark Fin soups. I didn't check the prices. Some jewelery stores were open. One, with gold chains hanging on the back wall, was busy, with Asians lined up 3 deep at the counter. Probably putting their money into gold, or gifts for the folks back home.

I tried to walk to the Monk's Bowl village, but turned the wrong way and ended up near the subway station, so I took it to the Phra Ram 9 station and IT city. I went up to the 3rd floor and asked for a charger at the first camera store I found. The girl had only a battery and charger set, for 1050B. More than I wanted to pay, but the charger was a tight fit on the battery, so I bought it. I also wanted screen savers and was sent down to a camera repair store, on the same floor. They were able to cut down a screen saver for the rear screen, for 100B. Next, I bought a 50 pack of blank CDs and a 7 port USB hub for Bill, 530B. Then I bought a grounded to ungrounded outlet plug, for 10B. I also asked about the serial number for the Adobe programs I bought last month and was told it was in the package.

I felt hungry, so I got a 100B card at the ground floor food court. I tried 2 dishes, not Thai, but Asian, for 45B and 35B. The first was stuffed noodles, sliced pork and green leaves, with a side of broth, and the second was Kyoza, or something like that, 5 stuffed dough crescents, thinly slice cabbage and a dipping sauce. Quite a bit of meat in all that, and not enough green veggies. Both looked good, but neither was great or filling, so I finished with a traditional dessert, for 20B. It was gelatin and fruit, cut into small cubes or that size pieces, topped with crushed ice and brown sugar. Tasted OK. My congestion is still interfering with the tastes or the odors, from food.

I returned to Roger's apartment, using the MTS and the BTS, which is now kept too cold, then walking. I stopped at Big C for a liter of OJ, a small tray of cooked noodles, a bag of soup, and 2 small bags of steamed rice, for 99B. At Roger's I filled my liter bottle with purified water, for 1B.

I finished to cookies in the apartment and watched 'Miss Potter' a very good movie, and started watching 'The Piano Player', a not so great movie.

So my outlay for today is 1930B, about $58.

Rest Day in Bangkok, Saturday, November 21, 2009

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We arrived at the Southern Bus Station about 4:15am, Saturday morning, although I walked around a lot before I figured out where I was. Wanted to make sure I was in Bangkok. I was too tired to try to find a bus into the city, so I asked a taxi to take me to Ekkamai, Soi 12 (1, 2). He drove like mad and I was back at Bill's at 5am. I paid the 241B fare with 260B. I found Bill's door too hard to open, like it was locked, so I let myself into Roger's apartment, drank some of the OJ I had left in the refrigerator and went to bed, falling asleep quickly. Bill said later that the trip can take over 2 hours on local buses.

I woke up about 8, and remained tired all day, having had less than 3 hours sleep. I stretched and showered, then had more OJ and started to update my diary, which I was unable to do on the Surins, both because I was too tired, and because the electricity wasn't available til 6pm.

I talked with Bill, about 11. He has a dental appointment on his day off, Monday, so we won't be able to go together to Ayuthaya.

I had lunch just before noon at the nearby cafe, a soup with big noodles, bean sprouts, fish balls, some other meat and bread rounds, for 40B. Tasted good, in spite of my sinus congestion.
I needed a walk to loosen my back so I walked down to the Big C where I bought tissue, 15.5B, Listerine, 57.5B, 1L of mixed fruit juice, 69B, 4 steamed dough buns, 32B, a small tray of fried rice, 10B, and 2 small bags of cooked rice, 10B, for a total of 194B.

About 2pm Trish called. She had talked to Mom who had just done some eye surgery on her good eye. Results won't be known for a while, but it is only intended to preserve the remaining sight. Trish sounded fine, but is tired from the IRS problem tension.

I ate the dough buns while they were still warm. They were wet on the bottoms and dried out on the tops, and the fillings were nearly tasteless, although that may be partly because of my sinus congestion, which causes most foods to have little taste. They weren't nearly as tasty as my memories of ones I've bought from street vendors. I drank the mixed fruit juice during the afternoon and finished it with dinner, a bag of rice mixed with the fried rice, which had small pieces of sausage mixed in it. I also ate most of the bag of creme cookies I had left in the refrigerator.

When I tired of the diary entry typing, I watched some DVD movies, checking all of the setups and menus til I found the culprit for the lack of voice. The sound for the DVD player output was set to 5.1Ch, so when I changed it to stereo, the DVD sound was fine on all of the movies. So I rewatched 'The Gathering Storm', then watched 'District 9' which was hard to follow and too bizarre for me, 'The Other Boleyn Girl' which was a fine story and well done, and the beginning of 'Miss Potter' which seems like a family film, as it probably should be.

I rested a lot, hoping to get rid of the cold.

So my outlay for today is 494B, about $15.

Surin Islands, Day 3, Friday, November 20, 2009

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I woke with the sun and got up around 7, in time for breakfast at 7:30. We were served rice soup. Tasted fine to me, although I still prefer citrus fruit or juice.

Mikey pointed out a lemur in the tree near the main building. It was up over 20 feet and looked like a lump of gray fur on the tree trunk. I took a video clip, but it didn't move.

The 3 of us tourists, plus Mikey and the 2 crewmen, went out in the long-tailed boat about 9. We went to 2 snorkel sites, skipping one other because the waves were too high and the tide was too low. On the 2nd site, I saw an eel and called the others over to have a look. The eel was in 3 feet of water, and was small. It stayed put, with less than a foot of his body showing out of his home.

About 11:45 we rode over to the Moken Village, a tourist version of the sea gypsies village. The huts are built of native vegetation and are on stilts, on the beach. There is a small exhibit building, a souvenir shop, with T shirts, and women offering Pandanus mats and boxes, and model Moken boats for sale along the path through the village. There are about 50 families living there and they have a clinic and school.

We went back a little after noon for the bounteous Thai lunch. Trish called partway through lunch and we had a nice talk, although she feels the bank is not going to help her with her IRS problem, since they did nothing wrong. Bill called right after that to tell me that Oye had left to be with her grandmother, so I won't be visiting her village.

After lunch I said goodbye to Jamie and Eric, who went out on the long-tailed boat with Mikey. I packed, left the 2 lead weights in Mikey's tent, on top of a 400B tip. On my way down to the beach, the lemur was just climbing back up the tree. I didn't have any cameras out. It looked like a gray squirrel, and it went high up, out of sight.

I waited til 3 when I and many others got in a long-tailed boat to get into water deep enough for the speed boat. The waves were enough to keep the boat off the beach. We boarded the boat about 3:40, after another group, and filled the boat, probably 25 tourists and a crew of 6. I went to the back and found a seat in the center of the side bench. The ride back was the roughest I've experienced in a small boat. The sea was choppy, with a lot of white caps. The boat surged on the waves and dropped in the troughs, pounding again and again. There are no side curtains, so the spray soaked the rear passengers, and there wasn't enough room for them to move out of the way. I was in the drier portion of the boat and was dripped on only a dozen times or so, when the waves were bigger than normal. We didn't get out of the rough water til we were near shore. The trip in to the mainland took about an hour and 40 minutes, about 30 minutes longer than the trip out to the Surins last Wednesday. Fortunately, the seats were padded, although some people stood the entire trip and one woman sat on the very hard ice chest. I am no longer in love with small boats on the open ocean.

Back at the pier, we turned in our towels, fins and snorkels, and I rinsed off in the toilet, because I was very salty and there are no fresh water showers that I could see. I asked one woman Greenview worker about my bus ride to Bangkok, and she immediately told one of the young men to drive me to the bus station, several miles away in the town of Khuru Buri. I paid the 550B for the VIP bus, and waited only about 25 minutes for the bus. I couldn't find the seat numbers and sat in the front til a young couple asked for their seats. I apologized and moved back to the only empty seat. We were given a lunch of a red bean paste filled baked bun, a small waxed box of soymilk and a small water bottle. The seat reclined and their was a thin blanket and small pillow provided, but the seat was too small for me and the AC kept the bus too cold for me to get warm with the blanket. Would have been OK if I didn't already have a cold. Couldn't sleep during the entire 10 hour ride. We stopped once at 10pm for a 20 minute break at a Muslim food court. All of the rice dishes I saw, on signs in Thai and English, had meat in them, so I bought a small tray of roasted hemispheres, of dough with a jam filling, for 20B. There was no English sign for it. Tasted good.

So my outlay for today is 970B, about $29.

Surin Islands, Day 2, Thursday, November 19, 2009

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Being exhausted, Sofie and I both retired early last night, before 9. I fell asleep quickly, even on the thin pad and packed sand.

I woke up with the sun, about 6:30. Got up about 7, stretched, put on my trunks and T shirt, and walked 200 feet for breakfast. We had a fried egg, sunny side up with a soft yolk, on a lettuce leaf, with onion slices, 4 slices of white bread, 2 hot dogs, and slices of cucumber or something else, but I forgot what it was. There was salt and pepper on the table, which I used on the egg. I ate everything because I was hungry, and I liked the egg.

This morning Sofie decided she wanted to go back on the afternoon speed boat and would not risk infection by going snorkeling. So, Mikey and I went out in the long-tailed boat, with the captain and a crewman to 4 snorkel spots, leaving about 9. At each spot, the crewman, Mikey and I fell into the water, with both Mikey and the crewman looking and finding things for me to see and video. Mikey was able to take the camcorder underwater and point it to grouper under a ledge. I had accidentally left the camcorder zoomed out and got nothing that can be watched.

We came in at 11:30 and had lunch at noon. Sofie was still certain she needed to go for treatment, partly because she flys out on Sunday and wants to be healed as much as possible before the long flight. We had a good Thai lunch, with more than we could eat. A weight wrapped in paper was given to Mikey at lunch. It was addressed to Mr. Gary and had other Thai words on it. There were no zip ties and Mikey asked around and found none on the island, so I fastened the weight to the bottom weight with one end of the neck cord.
After lunch, about 1, Trish called and we had a good talk.

We both said our sad goodbyes to Sofie, then went snorkeling. The crewman found a nylon cord from which I cut 2 lengths and tied the weight on a little more securely. The 2nd weight made the case nearly neutral, but there was still a slight positive buoyancy, so that was almost perfect. I shot a lot of video, and hope some of it is watchable. We stopped at 4 sites, all quite clear, with fairly calm water.

We were back about 4 and I put on my socks and shoes to walk the nature trail. The trail is closed because of damage from the Tsunami of 2005?. The other improvement on Surin Islands, including the tents and most of the equipment were washed away. The people had enough warning to go to higher ground. I carefully walked about a half mile of the trail, which goes through the woods a short distance above the beach and rocky shore. A large fallen tree blocks the beginning, and one section is covered with a debris flow. I stopped where a board walk had fallen away, requiring a rock scramble to continue. I wasn't about to risk falling on the rough granite, although if I had been more rested, I probably would have continued. I saw no animals, but clearly heard the Cicadas, which create a chorus of chirping which continues most of the day and evening.

I returned in time to watch the sunset and join Mikey and the new young couple for dinner at 6:30, Jamie and Eric. They are from Houston and are starting a 2 week trip. Eric works as an assets management consultant and Jamie is finishing her internship in Dermatology. They had a good time snorkeling today and are staying in one of the tents. The Thai dinner was great with 2 bowls and plates of everything.

After dinner, we 3 were tired and went to bed early, although I stayed up til 10 waiting for a camcorder battery to finish charging. The electricity doesn't start til 6 and I forgot to plug it in early.

So my outlay for today is nothing extra.

Surin Islands, Day 1, Wednesday, November 18, 2009

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I woke about 4, then twice more before 6, when I got up, packed as quietly as possible, since no one else was moving, and left about 6:30. I turned in my key and got my deposit, then waited. A few minutes after 7 the minivan showed up 5 other young people. We stopped at the Ramada Resort for another couple, then rode comfortably in the van driven like mad, as many drivers in Thailand do.

We arrived at the Greenview Tours building and dock before 8, signed in and picked up masks, snorkels, fins and a towel. I left the mask, since I use my 20 year old prescription mask. I tried on 3 fins before finding one that fit well. The staff was all very helpful and polite. There were probably 25 tourists, many from Germany, or thereabouts, judging from the voices. We boarded the speed boat, a small, probably 20 foot long, fairly new plastic, I think, hulled cruiser, with 3 outboards. On the boat we were given life jackets, and a short talk about the boat and safety, and took off at 8. The boat ran fast over the fairly calm sea, with very little bouncing. The engines and wind noise made conversation impossible, but I guessed which one was Sofie, the only one in our minivan without a partner, and said hello. In an hour and 10 minutes we were at the beach.

Mikey found us and introduced himself, then left allowing a Greenview staff member to show us to our tents, about 200 feet away, near the beach on the other side of the only nearly flat piece of ground in the islands. We left our packs in the tents. I was the only one with a lot of stuff, because I had asked Paul to allow me to get on a northbound bus to Bangkok, in Khuru Buri, rather than return south to Khao Lak first. The bungalows would have been safer for my stuff, but I didn't want to pay the extra 2000B per night that some couples did. I think they were all booked up anyway. Demon Diving subcontracts for the minivan, boat rides, food and tents, providing only the snorkeling guide.

Greenview showed us one tent and said 'for you', meaning both of us, thinking we were a couple or family. Sophie immediately said 'No, we each paid enough to have our own tent.' And there were 3 tents in a row, so Mikey had one, Sophie had one and I had the middle one.The tents were self-supporting, large, probably 10 feet by 10 feet, with netting and floors. We were on the sand, so couldn't keep the sand out completely. We were also provided with a thin pad, a thin sleeping bag and a small pillow. The pad was too thin for comfort, but I was tired enough both nights that I slept soundly.

About 10 almost everyone who came over on the boat got back on with snorkel equipment and we went to 2 different snorkel sites.The water was warm and the nearly calm, with visibility of 20 to 30 feet. Much clearer than Pattaya or Ko Tao.

Sophie wore long pants and a long-sleeved shirt in the water, which I found out later was because she had a bad sunburn, with blisters and swelling, on her legs and feet, and probably on her arms. She had gone kayaking in Ko Phi Phi, alone, on Sunday and the sun screen washed off and there was wind on the way back.

I took only my UW Olympus camera in the morning. I got no good photos, but tried a lot. My sinuses were congested, so I couldn't get more than about 5 feet deep. The guides were the Greenview staff. Mikey was on the long-tailed boat with a couple who were going back later that day.

We came back to the beach for lunch, all Thai food, and all very good. We sat at picnic tables in a roofed area and had plates and bowls of rice, soup, seafood and beef or chicken with vegetables. All our meals were similar, with enough variety to keep it interesting. Most of the meals also had a baked fish.

After lunch we went back out on the same boat and with the same people to 2 different sites. The sites differed mostly in the coral types and depths. Most of the fish were the same in all locations, with no sharks or other large animals, in sight, although they were in the area. We did see thrashing water nearby from the boat, possibly from turtles.

I tried out the camcorder again with the weight zip tied to the bottom of the case. The weight helped, but the case was still too buoyant for me to go underwater with it. Unfortunately, the sun is too bright to allow anything to be seen on the screen, except the white Handycam name on startup. I usually listened for the tone when I pushed stop, to know that the recording had stopped.

We were called back to the boat at 3:30 because rain was starting and the wind picked up a little. There had been almost no wind til then. The rain was light and it stopped shortly after we returned to the beach.

I asked Mikey about another weight and checked around the area, which took only a few minutes because there is only one large building for almost everything. The dive guy has a belt but needs the weights on it. I called Paul to tell him and he said he would send down another weight.

After dinner, we 3 talked for a while. Mikey Gaus grew up in Lawrence, Kansas, from the age of 5. His father moved around til then, because he was in the Air Force. Mikey doesn't want to live in Kansas, and has lived in Australia, where he learned to dive, and spent 6 weeks, I think he said, last summer on a car-with-small-engines rally from London or western Europe somewhere, to Ulan Batar, Mongolia, driving with a teammate in an 1100CC Citroen which broke down often. He flew into Thailand a month ago and got this job as a dive instructor and snorkel guide.

Sofie Goossens is a journalist with a women's magazine in Belgium and is debating whether or not to accept a promotion to manager. She is suffering, on this snorkeling tour, which was to be the highlight of her vacation, because of the blistering sunburn, which she expected would heal overnight, but is so far getting worse. She had rejected a shot of Cortisone, on Tuesday, because she thought it would make her more sensitive to the sun. The swelling in her ankles and feet got worse after that. She wore the long pants and shirt to keep the sun off her skin, but she is in pain and feels she needs to go back to the mainland for treatment, to make certain that the blisters don't open and become infected.

So my outlay for today is nothing extra.